Ford Explorer - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support

You most likely blew a fuse when you cut the wire. check all fuses sometimes the fuses are marked for one circuit but provide feed for other circuits, replace with same amperage fuse.

Yes.https://www.FreeAutoMechanic.com

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Duplicate question deleted. Just Refresh the page. Auto electrician or Auto locksmith, or try yourself https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+Ford+Explorer.+Problem+with+anti+theft+lock%2C+no+start%2C+Code+15 ..

Where is the evap purge solenoid on a 1998 ford explorer xlt 4.0 v6 sohc

The reason of P1565 OBD-II Engine Trouble Code is P1565 Speed Control Command Switch Out of Range High. An ASE certified mechanic can read this and adjust or fix it.

Regulator - Power Windows - Front Door

1. Remove the front door trim panel as follows:
   1. Remove the front door handle bezel.
   2. Remove the front door window/lock control switch bezel.
   3. Disconnect the window/lock control switch electrical connectors.
   4. Remove the 3 front door trim panel screws.
      CAUTION To avoid damaging the trim panel, do not pull directly outward to carry out this step.
   5. Lift the door trim panel by pulling directly upward on the armrest to disengage the panel clips.
   6. Remove the exterior mirror control switch from the front door trim panel.
      
2. Remove the front door speaker.
3. Remove the interior molding.
4. Disconnect the door lock actuating rod at the door handle assembly:
   1. Release the door lock actuating rod clip.
   2. Position the door lock actuating rod aside.
      
5. Remove the front door weather shield.
   CAUTION Make sure the holes in the glass bracket do not become enlarged during the rivet removal process. If the holes become enlarged, the new rivets may become loose, resulting in clicking noise concern.
   NOTE Some vehicles may use rivets to attach the window glass to the window regulator assembly. Use a 4.5 mm (0.1772 in) drill bit to drill out the glass-to-regulator rivets.
6. Remove the 2 front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets.
7. Position the front door window glass as necessary to access the front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets.
8. Secure the front door glass in the full up position with tape.
9. Disconnect the window regulator motor electrical connector.
10. Remove the 4 window regulator assembly nuts.
11. Remove the window regulator assembly.
    
    
    
    Fig. Exploded view of the front door and power window components-2005 Explorer and Mountaineer
    

To install:

1. Position the window regulator assembly.
2. Install the 4 window regulator assembly nuts. Tighten to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
3. Connect the window regulator motor electrical connector.
4. Remove the tape securing the front door glass in the full up position.
5. Position the front door window glass as necessary to access the front door window glass-to-regulator bolts or rivets. Install the bolt and tighten the bolts to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm), or install new rivets.
6. Install the front door weather shield.
7. Connect the door lock actuating rod at the door handle assembly:
   1. Position the door lock actuating rod into proper location.
   2. Attach the door lock actuating rod clip.
      
8. Install the interior molding.
9. Install the front door speaker.
10. Install the front door trim panel as follows:
    1. Install the exterior mirror control switch from the front door trim panel.
    2. Position the door trim panel onto the armrest to engage the panel clips.
    3. Install the 3 front door trim panel screws.
    4. Connect the window/lock control switch electrical connectors.
    5. Install the front door window/lock control switch bezel.
    6. Install the front door handle bezel.
    
    

1. Raise the front door window glass to the full up position.
2. Remove the interior door handle.
3. Support the front door window glass.
4. Disconnect the front door window regulator motor electrical connector.
5. Remove the equalizer bracket nuts.
   
   
   Fig. Remove the equalizer bracket nuts-2005 Explorer Sport-Trac
   
6. Remove the front door window regulator by removing the rivets and nuts.
7. Remove the front door window regulator motor retaining bolts and then remove the motor.
   
   
   
   Fig. Remove the front door window regulator motor retaining bolts and then remove the motor-2005 Explorer Sport-Trac
   

To install:

1. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
2. Tighten the regulator motor mounting bolts to 8 ft. lbs. (11 Nm).

Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).

Do You Have An engine light on ? sounds like a dirty or stuck EGR, could use a little better discription plz

Question edited to what I think you thought you were saying plus 'mazada' to Mazda. No one has tried it with a Mazda, but a Ford Ranger 3.0 transmission will fit. https://www.google.com/search?q=2000+Ford+Explorer+4.0+motor.+Will+a+transmission+out+of+Mazda+B3000+fit ..

Check transmission fluid level. If level is ok, may need new filter and tranny fluid.

Ideas and videos. https://www.google.com/search?q=2002+Ford+Explorer+no+crank+no+start ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category.

I cant find where the knock sensor is located on my 1998

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Ford Repair Mar 15, 2020 - Ok give me a minute to look it up. It is under the lower intake manifold. You have to remove that to replace the knock sensor. The block, you ... 1 answer · Top answer: Hello and welcome to Just Answer! My name is ***** ***** I am here to help answer your questions. ... Where's the knock sensor on a 4.0 ford ranger? - JustAnswer Dec 20, 2017 I have a 98 Ford explorer with a 4.0 L SOHC and I need to Jul 22, 2006 1998 ford ranger 4.0 eng. knock sensor location? - JustAnswer Oct 17, 2010 Where is the MAP sensor located on an '05 Explorer 4.0 L eng Aug 15, 2008 More results from www.justanswer.com

Ford 4.0L SOHC V6 Engine Sensor Locations

TroubleCodes.net https://www.troublecodes.net > sensors > ford-4-0l-soh... Fuel injectors (located underneath the intake manifold) · Mass airflow sensor (MAF) · Camshaft position sensors (CMP) (located at the front of the driver side ... .. Videographic help

Question edited for clarity and add punctuation. Question moved to model category. No, the EGR Valve recirculates exhaust gases to burn them a bit more and has no link to the transmission. You need an auto electrician or a transmission specialist. https://www.google.com/search?q=2004+ford+explorer+4.0+overdrive+off+light+flashing ..

Question edited for clarity 'for' to Ford, year make model first. Question moved to model category. Test with a digital multimeter.

On this website you can find fuse box diagram for a lot of old models car but not only https://www.autogenius.info/ford-explorer-1995-2001-fuse-box-diagram-usa-version/ https://www.autogenius.info/ford-explorer-un105-un150-1994-2003-fuse-box-diagram/

do to any electrical work remove neg battery lug first and not blow up expensive modules. door locks dead or door windows or both. ? just one door fails? all flush checked.? pull battery neg lug then put back the cut wire properly ,soldered and heat shrink tubing used, then replace all blown fuses,and put back battery neg lug last? this car uses a GEM module to direct all that, to windows and you do not want to blow up any GEM, ok? lets do fuse related. F8 maxi fuse 30amp in battery junctionbox. boom f10 same box same amps and same maxi fuse type. fuse 10 also blows and all door locks dead too. so when you short out wires things die checking fuses is always first. or CB circuit breakers, none here CB. , boom

The previous owner can tell you. The dealership can tell you the original code based on the VIN Number. Or you can do to an auto electrician, or an auto locksmith to reprogram it. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

Anon (no miles odometer told) the starter is dead? if yes say so clearly, starter silent, clicks, chatters or is 100% dead. silent. starter dead has 6 causes (plus Alternator tests too) engine dead up to 50 (valve springs broken of 24 there?) step 1 is check fuses #2 the jumper cable the battery and crank it over? the new battery is now dead. discharged from excessive cranking,or learn to keep the battery charged until it starts again. once started we do alternator tests, 13v to 15vdc running at lugs of battery. the engine shut off driving,? on the fly driving alternator bad or fuses to it blown. learn to use a voltmeter at the battery cranking 11vdc is par, CRANKING less means battery is weak or bad or simply discharged. a 2man test,1 cranks other measures battery lugs. all 4 lugs tight,and cleaned of rust. 2cables = 4 lugs. to fail. we use tools and meters and tests to find what is wrong what engine 4.0 L Cologne SOHC V6 4.6 L Modular 24-valve V8 ?>??????/ VIN #8 code ? cam chain failure?' scans show cam timing off? the driving to work stall sure can be the alternator dead or just 16 year old bad spark plugs? or 16 year old COP boots bad, sure the are that old filters bad? clogged. my guess (never accurate) guessing. is when driving to work, the GEN/CHARGE/BATTERY lamp in cluster was glowing and this is why it stalled then didnt do the jumper cable jump starte and see OMG all is good but the ALT /gen is dead. and stalls again in say 1 hours, driving and battery is dead again , wash wear repeat.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It is difficult to test things like relays when you have an intermittent fault because it could test okay 9 times out of 10. They are not expensive, I would swap out the fuel pump relay for a new one. If that doesn't fix it, you need and auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. They can record what is happening when things go wrong.

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. It could be so many things. Look at the YouTube channel called 'Just Rolled In'. United States vehicles in terrible condition being driven into garages all across America. It could be so many things and needs to be put up on a hoist and checked. In no particular order. Loose wheel lugs or only 1 wheel lug bald tires over inflated or under inflated tires deformed tires with bulges, wheels out of balance bent rims worn tie rod ends worn wheel bearings broken suspension springs failed shock absorber struts rusted out parts on anything holding the wheels worn sway bar bushes (called 'sway bar' for good reason) Not an exhaustive list, but likely one of the above. more here https://www.google.com/search?q=1999+Ford+Explorer.+Why+does+my+car+%22shimmy%22+above+50+mph ..

Videos that might help https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+Ford+Explorer+4.0L+V6+OHV%2C+Head+gasket+replacement Torque and Sequence https://www.google.com/search?q=1992+ford+explorer+cylinder+head+torque+specs ..